These pages are part of a growing information resource inspired by, and based on, decades of helping domestic poultry keepers find the right solutions for their situation and our own experience breeding birds to improve selected UK pure breeds. No "out of the box, one size fits all" here. We recognisethe individuality of your circumstances and have the experience, and the range of answers, to help you and your birds. It is far from complete please bear with us, and return to learn more.

WHAT AGE TO BUY BIRDS

The age of the birds you choose to start with depends on your situation and experience. 

Hatching Eggs - 
Starting with Hatching Eggs is very appealing and has lots of benefits if you are interested in egg quality of the birds you are producing. You know what colour the eggs are, so have more confidence that the hens you hatch will have the right genetics.
You do need more equipment : an incubator, or be lucky enough to have a reliable broody hen. Incubation can be really rewarding - but it can also be a black art.
Obviously its best to get hatching eggs directly from the breeder in person, that way you can see how they keep the birds, learn about how they select their stocks, how long they have had the parent birds, etc. The eggs are less likely to get damaged and remain in the correct conditions until put into the incubator.
There are increasingly tempting offers of eggs from various sources online. Some auction sites defy the law and sell them, sellers falsely stating that hatching eggs are not livestock. This is completely untrue as they are included in all the animal health regulations across the globe in the same way as other poultry.
Its an interesting gamble to get eggs this way but NEVER consider this to be reliable, or hold any guarentees. Shipping eggs by post is more likely than not to cause damage to them.

Day Olds - 
If you have the facilities, time and knowledge to rear your own it can be one of the most satisfying 'experiences'. Its pretty simple once you are prepared and if you can give them a bit of time and attention.
You need a warm, draught proof, predator free area in which to rear them. Utility room, secure garden shed, part of the garage, downstairs loo! - all have been used.
They will need heat lamps, chick/ duckling crumbs, and water. You will need to keep the temperature high - reducing gradually as they get bigger and feather up. They need very clean bedding at all times. 
Advantages : You will know that your birds have had everything they need, you will be able to build up a rapport with the young birds, it is less expensive; Its the only way to raise meat birds.
Disadvantages : There is a long wait for eggs; If you have a problem then you can lose all your birds (it takes a little more husbandry skills); You have to have access to the varieties of food for the different stages of growth - chick crumbs and grower pellets; It is almost impossible to sex day old pure breeds so you will end up with too many males   ( however if you have people in the area with birds you may be able to sell/ barter some of them if they have quality - you can also eat them. You have to be prepared to cull some.)

Growers -
This is the term used for birds that have come off heat (around 8 weeks) until they are around 18 weeks (when they become point of lay) for chickens; 12 weeks for ducks, which is not when they start laying but when they are considered young adults.
At this time good domestic poultry and waterfowl rearers aim to have the birds free ranging in grass pens. The big commercial companies cannot afford to have birds outside, it costs too much in time, buildings, and food so they grow their youngsters inside which does affect their growth and physiology.
Young growing birds have to be kept separate from adult hens as they need growers food which has the correct balance of nutrients to ensure they complete their growing to their fullest potential. Also adults can attack young birds that have not grown up with them.
These weeks are probably the most critical time in which the internal organs mature and the feathering is produced. The youngsters need lots of entertainment and start to develop their own characters.
If you are wanting to keep your birds outside, and cannot find anyone who rears outside then this is a good time to get them. They are easy to look after, just need grower food, and clean sheltered space outside with a secure house.
If you are wanting a lot of birds this is a good age to get them as they take up less space for transporting - they are pretty hardy if they have been well started.
If you are buying pure breeds there is still the problem of sexing them at this early stage, some are easier by this time but others can still be pretty elusisve. The errors may be fewer but nothing can be guarenteed.

Young Ducks -
These gain their adult plumage and are sexable much earlier than chickens so can be sold ready to go out with other ducks, fully feathered and reliably sexed at around 12 weeks old.

Point of Lay -
This is the term to describe chickens around 18 weeks old, for hybrids this is about 4 weeks before the birds actually start laying. This allows you and your birds to settle in to their new surroundings and routine. Pure breeds may be older as they mature slower and will start laying later - 25 - 30 weeks. [Some pure breeds will wait to start laying until the following spring, whatever time they are hatched the year before]
Buying at this age means that, other than introducing the new birds carefully to the existing flock, you don't need separate rearing facilities. It also means that someone else has done all the hard work and had all the expense. They can be fed as existing birds (and layers meal / pellets is more commonly available), and you don't have to wait long before the birds start laying. They will be more expensive to pay for all the hard work but sexing is more reliable.

Tim and Jill Bowis
Kintaline Mill Farm, Benderloch, OBAN Argyll PA37 1QS Scotland
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